The Met Gala. Paris Couture Week. Beyoncé. In simply the final couple of years, Gaurav Gupta’s identify has been talked about with every of those trending subjects, and the designer’s swirling creations have taken over the crimson carpet. Within the style world, that makes you a legend. However whereas Gupta might sound like a whirlwind success, his story really started 20 years in the past.
Upon graduating from London’s Central Saint Martins faculty, the designer returned to India to launch his namesake style model in 2004. On the time, India wasn’t precisely fashion-forward: the nation’s style business was dominated by conventional Indian clothes or fundamental kinds impressed by Western style. Gupta’s creations don’t match into both class. As a substitute, the designer attracts upon conceptual themes like mythology, spirituality and surrealism, and his ensuing attire are equal components dramatic and complicated.
As a substitute of counting on lavish elaborations as many Indian designers are likely to do, Gupta’s robes make an announcement with their sensual draping and sculpted silhouettes, achieved by a mix of conventional Indian craftsmanship and historic methods utilized in European style, like corsetry.
Amongst his improvements is the sari-gown, a reinvention of the millennia-old Indian garment that Gupta has imbued with the convenience of a night robe. As a substitute of draping it round her physique and pleating the skirt herself, a girl carrying Gupta’s sari solely has to zip it up.
Unsurprisingly, Gupta’s saris are huge in India. The remainder of the world would know him for his signature swirl robes as an alternative. Gupta’s attire have famously been worn by Megan Thee Stallion on the 2022 Oscars; by Aishwarya Rai on the Cannes Movie Competition in 2022; by Cardi B on the 2023 Grammys; and most not too long ago, by Mindy Kaling on the 2024 Met Gala. Past the crimson carpet, Gupta’s greatest movie star endorsement has come from Beyoncé: the singer wore a number of customized Gaurav Gupta ensembles, together with one of many aforementioned sari-gowns, throughout her Renaissance world tour final 12 months.
Whereas going viral is usually seen as a short-lived success for style designers, Gupta additionally made his mark on style historical past. In 2023, he grew to become the second Indian designer ever to hitch the Paris Couture Week calendar. He was invited by the final word authority of the French style business, the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode. In a way, Gupta lived as much as the title that was awarded to him at Rome’s style week, Altaroma, in 2003: the “Way forward for Couture”.
As a substitute of confining his style fantasy to the closed-off worlds of movie star and high fashion, Gupta has expanded his universe. He has launched a bridal line, a ready-to-wear line, and even menswear designs. Whereas nonetheless primarily based in New Delhi, Gupta additionally intends to convey his model to new markets just like the US, Europe and the Center East. This 12 months, the designer held a trunk present hosted by the Singaporean retailer Melange.
Beneath, we caught up with Gupta to be taught extra about how he’s revolutionising the Indian style business, and what it’s like being a designer to the world’s greatest stars.
What drives your creativity?
GAURAV GUPTA (GG): I feel individuals who have the present to be artistic are naturally non secular individuals. Creativity is among the highest types of spirituality. My inspiration comes from the universe, the cosmos, meteors, nature, abstraction, artwork, surrealism, sculpture and artists.
Lots of your collections draw from mythology, surrealism and fantasy. Why do you assume fantasy is critical to life?
GG: Many of the world is so mundane. Individuals are caught up in dealing with mundane life that they’re not capable of see the actual fantasy of what life and past have to supply. We don’t dwell within the surreal and our unconscious. Fantasy is alive on a regular basis, it’s simply that we want to have the ability to see it. I feel I used to be born to (present individuals this), not simply as a designer but additionally as an individual.
How do you spotlight India’s wealthy heritage of workmanship in your designs?
GG: I’ve 500 sensible artisans working with me, and we use very intensive Indian methods.Our artisans have turn out to be distinctive artisans in themselves, as a result of now we have taken Indian methods, like zardozi, and made it not look Indian. These sorts of embroidery methods are historical, however we do it in a futuristic approach. Steel casting has been performed in India eternally, however we’re making Kundalini sticks or a breastplate with it. Draping can be one thing very pure to me; it’s very free and fluid. And draping is Indian. India is among the solely locations the place the nationwide costume, the sari, remains to be being worn after hundreds of years. You don’t see that anyplace else on the earth. India remains to be an historical, dwelling “mindscape”. India is essential to me as a deeper, conceptual, non secular, tribal and ancestral area as effectively.
How has the Indian style business developed in on a regular basis that you simply’ve run your model?
GG: I’ve been a part of the change. I’m the change. After I got here to India 20 years in the past, every little thing was so conventional. It nonetheless fairly is in some methods, as a result of the Indian bridal market is the largest style market within the nation. Prepared-to-wear, particularly luxurious ready-to-wear, is evolving much more; a whole lot of worldwide manufacturers are coming into India. India is the following huge luxurious market on the earth, however it’s a difficult market as a result of it’s nonetheless very Indian. It’s by no means going to turn out to be like some other [market in fashion]; it’s all the time going to stay as India. It’s very native. It’s one thing totally different altogether.
You’ve dressed a few of the greatest stars in each the East and West. Is there a distinction in designing for each?
GG: I’m in the course of the world—I’m Japanese and Western, however on the similar time I don’t outline myself as both. I feel either side are on the lookout for innovation and celebration and freedom and infinity. And they can resonate with these issues once they collaborate with us.
Beyoncé is clearly a giant fan. How would you describe your collaboration along with her?
GG: It’s surreal and exhilarating, however it seems pure as effectively. After I began showcasing in Paris, I felt like I used to be at residence. And after I’m doing these sorts of garments for Beyoncé—you already know, lots of people on-line even wrote that that is such an incredible mixture. It feels just like the artwork is discovering its residence. I’m a fan of Beyoncé, in totality: how she is, the physique she has, the sunshine she emanates. She has that sense of going past and being infinite.
What did becoming a member of the Paris Couture Week calendar in 2023 imply to you?
GG: It’s a dream come true for any atelier on the earth. Paris Couture Week is the final word platform for style and artwork, and the approaching collectively of the 2. To showcase on the calendar with manufacturers which have been round for a very long time may be very prestigious. I’m honoured to be making historical past.
You’ve run your style label for 20 years now. What are essential qualities to have as a designer to make sure longevity?
GG: Numerous exhausting work—there isn’t any shortcut to exhausting work. Excessive perseverance. And a powerful perception in your self. Being authentic is totally essential; copying others or following developments gained’t take you a great distance. And have a stable enterprise mannequin and the very best individuals working with you. Have a enterprise accomplice like my brother, who’s wonderful.
What’s subsequent within the pipeline to your model?
GG: I’m engaged on a number of collections proper now: India couture, Paris couture, ready-to-wear, the vacation assortment and menswear.
This story initially appeared within the June/July 2024 subject of GRAZIA Singapore and Grazia.Sg.
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